Issue 308: Behind the cover

Peter Lord in Sótano
de las Golondrinas, Mexico

Almost exactly 50 years ago I needed to take a break from cave diving explorations to broaden my horizons. There was so much going on overseas and the area that gripped my attention more than any other was North America. I reflected long and hard about the idea of a trip, applied to my employer for leave of absence and – even though I was a geography teacher – found myself turned down flatly.
‘If you go, you’ll never get a job again in this authority’, said their advisor. It was a red rag to a bull.

So commenced a three and half month caving odyssey around the US, Canada and Mexico. It was a fantastic trip, meeting the leading explorers, learning so much and visiting world famous sites. With very little money, no insurance and just a lust for adventure I think it is true to say that everything reached a magnificent height (or depth) when tackling the deepest known shafts in Mexico, and indeed the world: El Sótano and Golondrinas. Fantastic in every sense!

Now, with more than a few grey hairs and a life-weary body, there were still places that figured strongly in my head. I wanted to return to Mexico and I really wanted to photograph some of the spectacular sites I knew; visions prominently, permanently, etched into the memory bank and crying out to be addressed.  

But Golondrinas? Fifty years ago I was young and fit; now, 376m felt like a very long way down – and back up. Then I heard rumours that a Mexican president had been to the bottom of the pit and somehow the idea of my return appeared to become just about feasible. What could possibly go wrong? Well, you only live once and with the encouragement of an old mate who now lives in southern Mexico a plan was set in motion. And what a unique experience it proved to be.

Martyn Farr